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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

쇼크업소버 교환

Steering became very tight and thus the Power Steering had drag in it and needed immediate repairing. We felt compromised and felt it was a Safety issue, which the dealer that I am having repair the problem did not know of other reports of this problem. I had heard this problem has happen to others with the 2018 Toyota Camry.

the steering wheel sometimes shakes at high speeds around 70 miles per hour. It does not always happen. Some day when I am driving at 70, I feel no shakes. some day it shakes badly at the same speed. Also, if I drive slower or faster a speed range (usually between 68 and 75), it never shakes. I did the following, but still the wheel shakes sometimes: I had the left wheel bearing replaced a month ago. The mechanic told me it needs to be replaced. Tires are fine (not perfect, but not bad either). I had them rotated a month ago. I had the front rotars and pads replaced a month ago. When I brake,

Update: I actually don't even have the car anymore. But I did immediately change this tire at the time. It's my rear right tire. It has a significant bulge in the sidewall. Here are two pictures of the bulge ( original URL ): Do I need to replace it before I ever drive on it again? Should I put on the spare to go buy the new tire? Or is it fine to even go a little bit on the highway for a few days before I replace it?

When the low tire pressure light is on, does that tire pressure includes the spare tire or not?

폭스바겐 파사트

B8 (2014-현재) · 1.4 TSI eTSI

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On my VW Passat B5 tires, there is a marking that reads "195/65R15 91 V". What does this mean? Do I have to get replacement tires with this exact marking on the side of the tire in the future or not? And if not, how can it differ? EDIT Not a duplicate as the other question is incomplete as it just tells the size, this covers the other markings too and gives more in depth, complete answers.

My car is a 2007 model FIAT Albea 1.3 liter 4-door saloon. I think it might be the "fire" version. Made (assembled) in Turkey. I use it 6 months a year but 4-5 weeks at a time. When it's stored/parked at my friend's place he keeps the engine running but does not drive the car. Invariably he has to replace a wheel, put on spare, take the flat tyre to a repair shop only to be told that there's no puncture! The tire goes flat "for no reason" but why?

First let me state I've been an Auto Tech since about 1967, so this is kicking my butt. I've replaced the water pump, radiator, lower hose, thermostat, fan sensor, coolant sender, engine temperature sensor, I've checked it for a head gasket breach (fluid stayed blue), I've bled the air out from every place I could find but feel there is still a pocket of air in the system. This is my girlfriend's car so right now I look like a real idiot.....please someone help me....(I don't look good with egg on my face).....(oh, and I've sprung for all the parts so far....this is getting expensive....HELP!)

Last night I ran over a bolt and it went straight into my front passenger tire. The shop that I usually take my car to for repairs is about 8 miles away (if I take no freeway), 7.5 miles away by freeway. The tire has sat for about 15 hours so far and does not seem to have lost any air and I can't hear any air escaping from it. Here is a picture of it: So, is this safe to drive on to get it to the shop? Thanks!

I would REALLY like to get rid of my spare wheel. The wheel is heavy and I need the spare wheel well for... other purposes. In my history of driving I never had to use the spare wheel, so it cost me a lot over time driving it around as that heavy bugger never gives me any gas money. I would still take it to longer trips, and ones that require a bit of offroading to be safe. I noticed some people leave their spare wheel at home and only hold a tyre repair kit in case of an emergency. And some new cars don't have a spare wheel at all (though I believe that would be for reducing costs rather than

Just wondering about this, unless the R doesn't mean "Radius" it doesn't make much sense.

I have yet to find anyone that knows of any benefits of low-profile tires. All of the pros that I've asked have said there is no benefit. Naturally, the number of pros that I have available to ask is limited so I'm wondering what a wider audience will say.

My bicycle tires go to 60 psi, and I can easily fill them up from nothing with less than 10 pumps. My car tires are at 32 psi, so shouldn't they be even easier? Yet I have never heard of anyone hand pumping their car tires. Why not?

When shopping for new tires from tirerack.com , the production date of the tires is listed. I'm considering tires from a 2007 production run, which would make them around 5 years old today (after damaging a tire, I'm looking at buying a pair of the same tires to match whats already on the car). I change tires seasonally between high performance summer and studless snow/ice, so a given set of tires can last me quite a while. I'd expect to get 4 seasons out of these (i.e. four more calendar years). How old is too old for a passenger car tire? How old would a "new tire" have to be before you pass

혼다 CR-V

RS (2022-현재) · 1.5T AWD

타이어 교환

My car honda CR-V is in pretty desperate need of new tires. I've put away a small amount from my last few paycheques, but it's not a whole lot. I'm curious as to whether you would feel it's a better choice to purchase cheap winter tires (GT Radial, Falken Tire, Ironman, etc.) or a high-quality all season? I can sink a little more if it means not having to purchase again in 6 months. By the way,I don't drive outside of the city at all in the winter. I only drive to and from work on major roadways and a couple side streets to get out of my community. Thanks everyone! After reading these response

How do I loosen car tire lug nuts (so that I can change a tire) when they are really really stuck? I have tried turning the provided wrench, even standing and jumping on it. This worked for 4 of the lug nuts, but not the bottom-most one. I have heard of using a rust remover/blaster , but I do not see much rust at all, and the tires are not too old if I recall correctly. Another recommendation I see is to use a long pipe on the handle of the wrench for more torque. But even with just the wrench I seem to be warping the stock wrench with my efforts! Some forums recommend using a 4-way lug wrench

So a friend of mine sent me this picture of a "blow out" that happened on his wife's car (some Infinity coupe). She said that it just happened all of a sudden with no warning. She says she pulled over as soon as possible, but from that severe damage, it seems like something else must have happened. What would cause the entire sidewall of the tire to disintegrate like that? I'm not sure, but these could be run flat tires since its a newer, nice car.

Any suggestions on how to fix the radiator fans on my 99 Grand Am. Both fans don't even kick on after I turn on the ac like they did before. I replace the coolant tank all hose just replace the coolant temps sensor and all the fuses are good. I ran a power source to the fans and they worked fine.

티데이 엔진오일 교환 했습니다 코란도 스포츠 디젤 싸게 한것 맞나요?

A 2000 town car limo was build just in tolerance for the 4.6 engine capability. Even at brand new it would overheat if you push it to hard. It is older and less efficient and it over heat in general if you push it. The question would apply to other engines: Can I move the heater cores meant for warming the vehicle to the front of the car to adding extra cooling power for the engine?

I saw this poster at a tire shop earlier today As the image quality isn't great, I'll reproduce the advert's claims in writing: Take the lead! Ride smart! [Nitrogen] for your SAFETY & ECONOMY Nitrogen molecules are bigger than normal air Less leakage Fuel effecient [sic] Less irregular wear No presence of Oxygen No oxidation Longer tyre life No deterioration It's no wonder why aircraft and formula 1 cars Use nitrogen to inflate their tyres! I would like to separate fact from fiction. Which of the above-mentioned claims would translate to practical, tangible benefits for road-going passenge

In a car with out four-wheel drive—if the car provides drive power on only two wheels—why put snow tires on all four wheels when the freeze sets in? Would it not be sufficient to change just the drive wheels? Is it just a question of use of the wheels and the extra use of two wheels for 12 months, while the other two pairs are being used nine months and three months would complicate things like wheel rotation? Related: need for matching tires on 4-wheel drive cars Edit : About braking : In this question we're more concerned about avoiding to get stuck. It's reasonably clear that having four wi

I just had to put a doughnut on my car and I used the typical manufacturer car jack that fits into that little slot of metal near your wheel. After I got all the lug nuts out, I tried pulling the wheel off in several different ways with all my strength and it was still stuck, so I went under the car and kicked off the tire and it fell to the ground. I wouldn't think this is a safety issue because you got a ton of weight sturdily mounted onto the jack, but I really hate those jacks that you have to crank with your hand that seems to come with all cars. I want to get one of those jacks that you

2000 Pontiac Montana Van- intake manifold has been replaced along with radiator, water pump, radiator cap and thermostat. When driving van will go to the red line but has never overheated with steam and such coming out of engine. It doesn't show signs of blown head gasket. Radiator and over flow are still full. Service engine light has been on since intake manifold repair. Air has been bled out of system quite a few times. Any help would be appreciated.

In May 2024, one of my coils went bad (car started misfiring, like it was going to stall). They replaced that coil. Six months later, same thing happened and they replaced another coil. Then in October 2025, same thing happened on the way home from work. Had it towed back to the same shop and they replaced it under warranty. Happened again in November. Same thing, had it towed, and replaced another one which was not technically under warranty but they took care of me anyway. So my question is, why does this keep happening? What can cause coils to keep going bad? The repair guy was just like, “