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My 2015 Elantra with 130K miles has developed a problem It stalls occasionally, and then the Tachometer goes to 0 and stays there even after I restart the car. After it stalls, it then hesitates and loses power, almost like it is the wrong gear and the tachometer never moves from 0 even while driving. . If i pull over and then restart it after just a couple of minutes, the problem clears up. No more hesitation, the tachometer reads the RPM, etc. The mechanic can’t find anything wrong with it. Did a complete computer scan of something like 11 systems and no problems are indicated. HELP. I love

I have a 2014 Chrysler Town and Country with 76K miles. The transmission works properly most of the time. No problems shifting through the gears. Usually OK from stationary into reverse or forwrd gears. Except, occasionally, there is a jarring clunk into first gear. After the jolt, everything is OK. I haven’t been able to determine any pattern to when it occurs-it seems pretty random. Of course, I can’t check the transmission fluid as there is no dipstick and access under the vehicle is limited. Has anyone had a similar issue or have an idea of how big of a problem this might become?

2005 dodge neon. This was a problem a few months ago. The cable going from ignition to shifter was the problem. I removed the cable at the ignition, and it worked perfect. Till today. Again, the key will not move either way. Is it the ignition this time? is it something else? The starter sol has been going bad I assume for a while. once in a great while I have to lightly tap on the solonoid to get it to turn over. i assume not related. I have been planning to soon take off and get tested at auto zone. i started a new topic because the old one i could not find

Hello everyone, Civic 8th gen Sedan 1.8 6MT (European), at 80k miles i have a problem since I bought it 2-3 years ago. When you accelerate from low speed or from standstill position on low gears 1 and 2, the car stalls and (heavily) judders for 2 secs when you leave the clutch pedal then continues normal. It happens on both gears 1 and 2. This generally happens when the car is still cold (but weather hot/cold doesnt matter) and when you drive uphill. It does not feel like clutch dragging but rather mechanical however I am not sure. Last summer I cleaned the throttle and EGR, also tried with EG

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2014년식 · ACV50 (2011-2017) · 2.5 자동

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Good evening. I got something I hope someone can help me out with. My son’s 2014 Jeep Patriot had the transmission replaced recently, and ever since there has been a noise that he hears whenever he starts to accelerate, when he slows to a stop, and whenever the transmission shifts. He took it back to the shop that replaced the transmission, they put another one in, and the noise persists. Then they thought maybe it was a CV shaft, but even after that the noise is still there. He sent me a video audio of the noise, about 33 seconds long. I’m wondering if maybe during the installation of the new

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

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TRANSMISSION: WHEN ACCELERATING HARD, SUCH AS ON AN ON RAMP, MY SPEED ONLY INCREASES SLIGHTLY WHILE THE ENGINE REVS TO 5000+ RPMS. I LET OFF THE GAS & THEN IT SHIFTS AND SPEEDS UP. THE 8 SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WILL NOT SHIFT ON HARD ACCELERATION UNTIL I LET OFF THE GAS PEDAL. THIS IS CONSISTENT AND I BELIEVE, A SAFETY HAZARD. CRUISE CONTROL: THIS SYSTEM HAS WHAT TOYOTA CALLS A SAFETY FEATURE THAT AUTOMATICALLY SLOWS THE CAR IF IT THINKS THE VEHICLE OR OBJECT AHEAD IS TOO CLOSE. IN REALITY IT SLOWS THE CAR DRAMATICALLY WITHOUT ANYTHING IN FRONT OF ME AND A CLEAN WINDSHIELD. IT HAS A WIND

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

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WHEN ACCELERATING FROM DEAD STOP IN A RIGHT HAND TURN UP-HILL CAR IS SLOW TO MOVE FORWARD REQUIRING MORE PRESSURE ON GAS PEDAL, THEN TRANSMISSION SEEMS TO BE HUNTING FOR RIGHT GEAR CAUSING A JERKY MOTION.

This is in regard to a 1993 Dodge Shadow with a 2.5L engine and 3-speed automatic transmission. When the engine is running, the transmission fluid leaks between the engine and transmission. Is there a replaceable seal, or does the torque converter itself need to be replaced? Once the motor and transmission are pulled, is it very difficult to remove and reinstall a torque converter onto a transmission? E.g. alignment.

Hi all, These are the issues of a Maserati 1990 (Quattroporte) 422, 2000 SL.6 cylinders, fule injection.The car lives in Greece, and is in pristine condition. 1) The rpms go up when the engine is idle (no gear?) e.g when you stop at a light. Apparently this is an unexpected behavior. Could you give me a list of possible reasons? 2)When we start the car and/or go from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine doesn’t “fire” right away. There is a lag, as if the car stops. Thanks Vasso

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2014년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport

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I need your opinion for a bud. About five months ago, I took my 2014 Jeep Cherokee to a mechanic I hadn’t used before (I’m new to the area). They told me the transmission needed to be replaced. They said they sourced one from a parts dealer and that several other components had to be removed or replaced to install it. The total came to a little over $4,000. Since then, I’ve barely driven it due to health issues. Last week, I tried to go to church. When I shifted into reverse, it was very rough—just like before the replacement. Then I put it in drive and it got stuck in neutral. I called the sh

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MX5 (2023-현재) · 2.5 T-GDi 자동

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Here’s the backstory, For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign “clunk”, and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it. So

Hi all, I am new here and have a question. About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2003 Honda Civic EX Coupe, automatic transmission with 131,000 on it. I took it to my mechanic before purchasing it and he said it looked good. The test drive didn’t reveal any problems. A few days into owning it, however, I noticed this screeching noise but it didn’t happen all the time. When it happened, I was always taking off from an intersection or pulling out of a parking lot - never when I was just driving down the road or on startup. The mechanic couldn’t get the noise to happen but inspected the belts and said

My gear indicator needle occasionally fails to line up with the letters on my 2001 Grand Marquis. It’s a well-maintained vehicle with 125,000 miles. This issue happened a few years ago, and a shop where I lived at the time fixed me up. The repair lasted a few years. Today, I took the vehicle to the local Ford dealer, and they told me it couldn’t be repaired, that Ford no longer make parts for that issue for 2001. They said it’s just normal for a vehicle this old and nothing can be done, that even after market parts are no longer available. I really thought the indicator needle failing to line

Hello everyone its me on a new day with problems of course. Civic EU Sedan 1.8 R18a2, stickshift, 80k miles from 2010. Driven in mixed cycles of city (sometimes heavy traffic) and short trips and half intercity/highway driving. I fixed many stuff with this piece of crab (sorry) and put it on sale as I hate it so much however she loves to surprise me: Two things: Nr 1: in January after standard service (oil, filters) few weeks later orange check oil pressure light came up. I stopped checked the level and it was at max. Started the car, warning gone, ran OBD from bluetooth, no codes. Today it ca

I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger, which I’ve had for the life of the truck. For a few years, I’ve had the CEL on more often than not, usually for codes related to oxygen sensors and cat converter. I’ve taken the truck to a couple of shops and had O2 sensors replaced (repeatedly), but the CEL has come back on within a few days. I’m not at all experienced with auto-work, but I’ve been trying to pick up some new skills (in the interest of not going broke). So, aside from the shops doing their work, I’ve personally replaced a couple of O2 sensors, one catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, etc. Betwee

My 2005 Buick Century with 353k miles gets a recurring P0420 code, catalytic converter operating below efficiency level. Twice this year, I tried using Cataclean, but with no success. I noticed a small hole in my muffler at the seam. Could a lack of exhaust back pressure cause the CC to operate inefficiently or improperly? Can anyone recommend a catalytic converter cleaner? Or, is it all snake oil?

I have a 2005 Camry that I don’t plan on driving much. First time I have had to consider time recommendations over mileage. Should all time constrained maintenance, such as changing your oil once every 6 months (even if you don’t go 5000 miles in that time) be strictly followed? Opinions seem to vary from person to person. I can see how if you just let your car sit, that it could cause some problems. But I figured if I start it monthly and get up to operating temperature, I should be ok? Moisture can find it’s way into the engine and transmission, bringing it up to operating temperature might

My wife’s car is a 2007 Corolla. She told me the car is making a noise that sounds like a shifting bag of rice. I rode in the car and we stopped at the end of the street and then started into a left-handed u-turn and it sounded to me like we ran over some light gravel/sand on the right-front, but we didn’t - that was the sound. Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Happens when giving it gas while going into a sharp turn - either direction. She’s not sure that it happens 100% every time, but it does happen regularly. Hoping someone else here has experienced this sound before and can tell me what it is. Thank you

My Pilot is lighting up a catalytic converter code on the dashboard. My Boch Honda dealer service is quoting $1,037 for the replacement part and more than $600 for the labor. Does that make any sense? The car has 180,000 miles on it. Should I just go with non-Honda parts?

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2007년식 · ACV40 (2006-2011) · 2.4 자동

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Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice on a specific shifting issue with my 2007 Toyota Auris 1.4 D4D (Manual). I cannot shift from 4th gear into 3rd gear while the car is moving. It feels like hitting a physical wall, no grinding or noise, just a total lockout. Upshifting is fine 2nd to 3rd gear works perfectly. Also others gears no problem at all. From 1st to 5th to reverse. I can select 3rd gear easily when the car is stopped. The car recently sat in snow/freezing temperatures for 5 days. There is no “crunching” or grinding sound. And it was suddenly no prior symptoms. I moved my car afte

When the temp drops below 28 degrees , my manual transmission in my Plymouth Laser 1992 (same as Eclipse) will refuse to shift into reverse. It just feels sloggy , stuck ( other gears work fine) . Now if the sun is out and the cabin itself warms up, the transmission will shift in reverse if the outside is below 28 degrees which seems to tell me the problem is in the linkage with the actual hand stick. Can this be repaired? When I described this to my mechanic , he said you have to replace the transmissin. After 33 years , can't this be a lubrication issue ( I changed the tranny fluid with synt

The old winter car 98 Lesabre has been acting up recently. Monday when a few miles from home it started going between gears upshifting and downshifting and giving a decent clunk when starting from a dead stop, Checked the Trany fluid level and it was not low, A bit over full. It sat in the yard for maybe an hour, and I took it for a ride, It worked perfect. Tuesday it worked fine till 10 miles from home and did the same thing. I went slow and made it home No problem. When this happens the cruise control never works. Today the transmission worked well, the cruise did go out for a short time the

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

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AN EMERGENCY MESSAGE CAME ON TELLING ME MY BRAKES WERE LOSING POWER BAND I NEEDED TO PULL OVER TO A SAFE AREA. I WAS ON THE FREEWAY! I COULD NOT PUSH DOWN. I HAD TO USE THE PARKING BREAK AND GO INTO A LOWER GEAR TO GET TO THE SHOULDER THEN MY CAR CAME TO A STOP IN THE CROSSWALK OF THE FREEWAY EXIT. VACUUM PUMP STOPPED WORKING. WENT IN TO REPLACE IT AND THE BACKSIDE IS DECENTIGRATED INTO THE MOTOR. NEEDS CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY/EXHAUST REPLACED, INVESTIGATE THE MOTOR TO LOOK FOR PIECES SO THEY DON'T DAMAGE THE MOTOR, NO GEAR AT THE END OF THE VACUUM PUMP, IT HAS GONE DOWN NOT THE MOTOR

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2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

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I JUST BOUGHT MY CAR AND THE TRANSMISSION JERKS AND IS REALLY BAD. DEALER SAID HE'S AWARE BUY TOYOTA ISNT DOING ANYTHING ABOUT IT AND IT PASSES THE SOFTWARE TESTS. I READ ONLINE AND THERE'S HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE COMPLAINING OF THE SAME ISSUE. MY CAR IS A WEEK OLD... I REALLY HOPE YOU CAN INVESTIGATE THIS AND MAKE.TOYOTA FIX THEIR TRANSMISSIONS. THE ISSUE HAPPENS WHEN FIRST STARTING; WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND REALLY ANY TIME I PRESS THE GAS.