정비 사례

This is my front passenger tire. As you can see, there is a large crack where you can see wire underneath. I ordered new tires that are supposed to arrive on Friday, however, I still need to get to & from work every day this week (approximately 10 miles of highway x2 per day). Is this tire safe to drive to work, or should I wait to drive it directly to the mechanic to change out the tires when they arrive? Thanks!

지프 랭글러

2012년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport

타이어 교환

I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee which in general has had a few small issues (stock radio failure, stuck on heat only for the passenger side, and after resolving that, I'm stuck on heat only for the driver's side, to name a couple) but lately I have noticed something that may be more concerning. When turning the wheel to the left, and accelerating/applying the gas, there is a very loud knocking or clicking noise seeming to come from the front left tire (could be elsewhere too, but I can hear it most on the driver's side, since I am driving when it occurs). It gets louder the farther I Turn th

토요타 캠리

2009년식 · ACV40 (2006-2011) · 2.4 자동

쇼크업소버 교환

I've noticed one front wheel on my car isn't centered where it should sit, and so it has a slight pull in that direction. Attached is a diagram of what I mean - what do you reckon could be the problem? Edit. Aprox 1 year ago I had that side's Shock Mounts, suspension arm, axle boot and wheel bearing replaced, along with both shock absorbers, but I don't know if that could be related, given it was so long ago. EDIT2: We're talking about a 2009 Toyota Yaris HB.

I just had new winter tires put on my 2003 Honda Civic 4-door LX. The steering has been affected. The steering now feels "weak" or "light" or "loose". Meaning I now have to turn the wheel further to make my car turn than I did before changing the tires. For example. Before changing my tires, I would generally turn the steering wheel about three inches to comfortably change lanes. Now I have to turn the wheel about a full quarter turn to have the same affect, so maybe about double the distance. And to be clear the steering is fine otherwise: doesn't pull, doesn't shake. I did contact the garage

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

엔진오일 교환

My Issue was LOW BREAKING POWER in other words i couldn't stop on some of these 2018 camry le there was an recall for the brake vacuum pump something about not being machined right some kind of oil leak my car was not part of it but my pump went out for that reason while i was driving back from tahoe DAM LUCKY IT DIDN"T HAPPEN COMING DOWN THE HILL now i have to cash out about 1000 did my car slip threw the crack what can i do can i get my money back THIS COULD HAVE ENDED MY LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

마쯔다 마쯔다3

BP (2018-현재) · 2.0 Skyactiv-X AWD

타이어 교환

Forced into a curb this morning while going about 35 mph...Just wondering what I'll be in for when I take it in later this afternoon. No air coming out as far as I can tell... Maybe 1/4-1/2 inch deep, and about 2 inches across... Any thoughts would be appreciated! Secondary question... I have only about 6800 miles on my car, and have already replaced one tire due to a bad flat (back left)...Given that this is an AWD vehicle... do we think I'll be able to get away with only replacing this one affected tire?

쉐보레 말리부

8G (2015-2023) · 1.5T 자동

냉각수 교환

This morning my power steering stopped working and my heater and when I opened the hood there was coolant everywhere, looked like it came out of the radiator cap. The serpentine belt was off the lowest pulley and when I tried to put it back on I realized that pulley wasn't in line with the others, was not possible to put belt on. What would cause the pulley to move so far out of alignment and how can I fix it. Is this what's causing the other problems? It was below zero degrees last night and no garage.

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

브레이크 패드 교환

The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Camry. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the brake pedal became stuck and was difficult to depress. The contact was able to pull over and had the vehicle towed to the dealer. The dealer diagnosed the vehicle as vacuum brake pump failure and needed a vacuum brake pump replacement. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact to tow the vehicle to the nearest dealer. The failure mileage was approximately 57,000.

인피니티 Q50

V37 (2013-현재) · 2.0T 자동

쇼크업소버 교환

This morning, my car wouldn't start so a friend of mine and I tried to push start it, with no luck. We got around a corner in my neighborhood and fortunately found someone who could jump it. Afterwards, as soon as I reverse, I notice there is a puddle of orange-ish fluid on the ground and my steering is SUPER tight. I need help figuring out exactly what is going on, because I know I shouldn't be driving it in it's current state.

토요타 캠리

2006년식 · ACV40 (2006-2011) · 2.4 자동

정기점검

I took my 2006 Toyota Camry with 4-cylinder engine in for a state-mandated safety inspection and the mechanic failed the vehicle claiming that "the steering rack is completely broken" and quoted $2500 to replace the rack, and the fluid and do an alignment. Since I had just driven the car for two hours, I was deeply skeptical about "completely broken" so put it up on the lift in my garage and it appears to me to be nothing more than a torn boot on the passenger side and some fairly minor leakage, which is to be expected on a vehicle with 205,000 miles on it. Power steering f

My car has developed an annoying creaking sound when turning. I'm trying to figure out what it is but I've hit the limit of my car knowledge now. Car: 2003 Mazda Pretege5 Miles: 121K The creaking sounds like it's coming from more toward the center of the engine. I started off by checking the tie rod ends. I found the boot on one end slightly greasy but overall still intact. I'll put that on the future repair list. The other end looks fine. I jacked the front end off the ground to remove weight from the wheels and rule out bad ball joints. I got the same sound with the wheels off the ground. Th

I have recently bought a 2005 Grand Prix V6 non supercharged. It overheats at idle and in park. I have had my head gasket and head resurfaced at Pepboys and replaced my radiator with a larger 1 inch thick radiator. The thermostat was also with a new OEM one. Bled and burped my cooling system. No leaks anywhere. Bypassed the heater and capped the hosses. The car still wants to climb to the red. It has Dextron 50/50 and has been flushed. Both fans kick on with a good amount of breeze. How can I troubleshoot my cooling system to discover what the issue might be with the continued overheating?

I have heard people say that cars with HPS and Non PS have nice steering feedback while the other cars with EPS steering's have vague feeling and has no feedback at all.I have driven few cars, A fiat punto , hyundai i10 where punto's steering felt heavy and used to move left and right somewhat when driven over rough roads unlike i10 which was light and move-able with a flick of finger and minor vibrations on the steering on rough tarmac. So , What exactly is steering feel and feedback which a driver gets when driving?

i have a 2005 saab 92x which i know has a subaru engine. would i be better off using a subaru mechanic for maintenance/repairs? i live south of boston. any recommendations?

Car: 2006 scion tc So the other day I had a problem, as I was driving, I hit a hard bump, my passenger side tie rod then fell out (I assume it wasn't screwed in correctly from the last time it was replace) my right tire then turned all the way to the left and I skidded to a stop. After, I inspected the tie rod, it looked good with no signs of damage, the inner and outer part were still locked in position by he nut, and the threaded ball joint that screws into the steering rack looked fine too. I screwed the tie rod back in, tightened everything down so I could drive it home down the street, bu

I took my car (Mk1 Golf/Rabbit Cabriolet) to get new front struts and new strut mounts kits installed. When I got it back, the steering and suspension certainly felt better, but the steering wheel is now on an angle. I can't imagine any reason why the tie rods would be tampered with during this process, but I am not a professional. Could this just be the result of replacing the strut mounts and strut mounts bearings, causing the wheels to be better aligned?

UPDATE: Both tie rods were removed by unscrewing the inner tie-rod from vehicle: rotated steering wheel to maximum to improve access removed bellows boot to expose wrench-able area of inner tie rod used inner tie rod socket with pipe wrench to unscrew inner tie rod GOAL: 95 Acura Integra left inner+outer tie-rod replacement. This challenge was identified after resolving: Difficulty removing Outer Tie Rod from steering knuckle Outer tie rod removed from steering knuckle (see photo) Jam-nut loosened (red-box in photo) Uppermost part of rod is in a rotating socket (similar to a human arm). Attemp

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

배터리 교환

When I was complete left or right turning steering wheel at low rpm, it feels like hard of stiff and loosen and stiff again and loosen.So I was gone to toyota dealership, but they couldnt find anything.

혼다 어코드

CR3 (2022-현재) · 1.5T AWD

변속기 오일 교환

I've recently purchases a manual transmission 1.5 Honda Mobilio. Which claimed to be a drive by wire vehicle and I assume it really is (don't know how to tell if a car is drive by wire). I am a new driver and on my observation, when I take the key out, the steering is ultra hard to turn at all compared to me turning the key to II or ON. The user manual also says, steering may be disabled when car is off or hard to control when the car is off, warning me about free wheeling down a hill with the car off. My question is: Is the main reason for the disabled steering the drive-by-wire system or is

I'm designing a car with an Ackermann steering mechanism. According to everything I have read about Ackermann steering, if I set up my steering mechanism like this: ... then I should get behaviour like this: Well, not according to my CAD. The front wheel axes crossing point actually traces out a path somewhat distant from the rear axle projection, like this: Is this what I should expect? Or have the rules of geometry suddenly changed within my CAD package?

I have a Toyota Corolla Verso bought in 2005. Recently it has started to make a noise somewhere in the steering column. Whilst it is only as loud as a clanking keyring, the odd thing is that the noise is made at irregular moments, nothing to do with speed or turning. Most odd of all, the car can be motionless (engine running, handbrake on) and the noise will start and stop of its own accord, without anything moving. Yes, with my hands off the wheel! If forced to guess, I would say the sound is coming from that part of the steering column nearest to the driver's knees. It reminds me of a motori

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

변속기 오일 교환

Vehicle hesitates/jerks at low speeds, rolling stop (low mph) when initially pressing accelerator will jerk/hesitate/take a breath before dropping into gear. This is a KNOWN issue that Toyota has thus far selectively chosen which engine codes they will repair. It is clear, on this website alone, that this issue is universal. Technical Service Bulletin T-SB-0152-19 REV1 should be available to all Toyota Camry owners immediately. This needs to be recalled.

포드 머스탱

S650 (2024-현재) · 2.3T EcoBoost 자동

타이어 교환

I drive a Ford Fiesta which has clocked 110 000km total. When I cross 100-120km/h on a smooth road, the steering wheel starts to vibrate, and the vibration reduces when I reduce my speed. I guessed the problem was in the tires, so I replaced the front tires with new ones, but I still get that vibration at high speeds. I also get these vibrations when I drive at high speed and suddenly slow down towards a bump. Can someone give me an idea for a solution?

Recently I brought my car (1996 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission) in for it’s annual inspection. The mechanic pointed out that the struts needed to be replaced, and there was a problem with the battery terminal, so he replaced that. When I returned after the car was repaired, he told me the car had failed the emissions test, but that this was because he replaced the battery terminal. He said to drive the car for 100 miles and then bring it back to his shop and it would pass the emissions test. My question is - does it make sense that replacing the battery terminal would cause a problem with