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Hello, My car is like groundhog day with Bill Murray. Every morning I drive to work 10 miles on the highway. As I hit the the red light…it sputter and stalls. I start it and no problem off we go. This is the ONLY time it stalls during the day.This is EVERY DAY lol. Now it has thrown at times a P0171 lean code doing this so I can assume this is the problem. Once in awhile it throws a P0420 that the CAT might be acting up when on the HWY.. So far I have cleaned the throttle, checked for cracks at the accordion hose going from the throttle to the air filter box. I have changed the air filter. I h

I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4 and I’m dealing with a no start problem that I can’t figure out. I’m thinking it’s probably the fuel pump, but it could also be the ignition switch or maybe crankshaft/camshaft sensor. This all started a couple months ago. The car was acting weird when I tried to start it. I’d turn the key and get dash lights and headlights, but no crank at all. If I kept turning the key a few times, it would eventually start. Then a few weeks ago, it changed to where the car would crank and start, but immediately die right after. About two weeks ago, it got worse and turn

the car has been leaking oil. it had been leaking oil for over a year now but she just kept driving it. it’s coming from somewhere above and not to drain plug. in one pic it might seem like it’s the drain plug but it is not. i wiped it down and there was no more oil dripping for hours. the drip or leak only occurs after it’s been driven. IMG_4223 750×1334 248 KB IMG_4220 1920×2560 1.07 MB IMG_4221 750×1334 88.7 KB IMG_4222 750×1334 269 KB there has been a leak for over a year. we drove this car on. 3 hour road trip in the last year and back. the car runs. i did two oil changes personally. just

I’m trying to understand why my 2011 civic (8th gen) is generating a p0128 code (coolant temp too low). It’s happened twice, spaced about 7 weeks apart. Neither engine nor cooling system has had recent work, and coolant is at normal level and has not changed level. Both times that the code showed up, the radiator fans were running, and the car had been running for a good while already, so the car seems to have gotten to 210F, which seems to be the trigger temp for the fans. The code seems weird to me because the temp sensor must have been recording the 210F temp in order to trigger the fans, a

Title: We Tested 0W-20, 5W-30 & 5W-40 in the ENGINE — One Clear Winner! They test the 3 oils and do oil analysis to measure the wear metals to determine wear. Edit, there is no need to report the topic and have it removed from the forum because you think it is low quality content, AI generated, or because you disagree with it. There is no forum rule against referring to AI enhanced content. It could be a machine translation from a different language, or an AI altered repost of another quality article. Yes it is sensationalized like a lot of stuff on youtube is. The image of the video showi

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S650 (2024-현재) · 2.3T EcoBoost 자동

배터리 교환

Hi Im working on ford mondeo mk4 and so far discovered that there are multiple communication faults. Checked the resistance, voltage… On osciloscope can high and can low are good but occasionally the network spikes and also the relay of glowplugs starts clicking for few seconds. This happens at random time but also when i open/close doors. When i turn the ignition on the relay is also clicking and also i can hear air intake actuator goes on and off. The thing is… I think that these things are only symptoms, tried many things but I dont know where else to go. What could produce these faults. Th

Any chance someone can tell me what’s going wrong here. I’m used a titan 3/16 double flaring tool and nicopp. It keeps giving me this weird stepped flare. I’m not sure what to call this issue so I didn’t know what to look up. I’m doing my best to get a square cut, then I chamfer the outside with a file and chamfer the inside with a utility knife until there’s no burrs. I’m sort of worried that the screwing motion of the tool is messing with it somehow and instead I need a press tool. What’s weird is I did get one sort of good flare but couldn’t replicate it. It’s also made a few good flares us

혼다 어코드

2020년식 · CR2 (2017-2022) · 1.5T 자동

드라이브샤프트 교환

2020 Honda Accord. I’m now realizing that the lower ball joints use self locking clinch nuts. Have never heard of clinch nuts before. Anyways the service information says to replace them. This is with regards to the lower three nuts that goes onto the studs, as opposed to castle nut that goes on top under the cv axle. See lots of people on youtube doing repairs which requires removing these nuts, and they go ahead and use the same old rusty nuts right back on. image 667×557 32.8 KB Looking online at this type of self locking technology. It is mostly used in sheet metal. A hole is drilled into

Do you perfer a ASE certified and one which has a degree or are you satisfied with a tech that has “been doing this for 30 years”? Do you look for ASE plaqueard at your mechanics shop?

and today i drove on some dirt roads and felt something rub on the bottom of my car so i inspected below and it seems one of the rubber boots is missing a clamp? any advice or input? my car clicks when it turns at low speeds but otherwise drives fine. i am asking can i just drive it and not get it repaired? i am poor and i am delivery driver for a living and dont have expendable income. IMG_6336 1334×750 150 KB

My 2015 Elantra with 130K miles has developed a problem It stalls occasionally, and then the Tachometer goes to 0 and stays there even after I restart the car. After it stalls, it then hesitates and loses power, almost like it is the wrong gear and the tachometer never moves from 0 even while driving. . If i pull over and then restart it after just a couple of minutes, the problem clears up. No more hesitation, the tachometer reads the RPM, etc. The mechanic can’t find anything wrong with it. Did a complete computer scan of something like 11 systems and no problems are indicated. HELP. I love

2003 Hyundai Santa Fe will start then die. Then it will not start. After pumping the accelerator or holding on the floor and returning later it will start. Nothing codes out. This happens probably 15% of the time. Any ideas?

토요타 캠리

2007년식 · ACV40 (2006-2011) · 2.4 자동

배터리 교환

My 2007 Toyota Camry has a 2.4l engine 4 cylinders and it’s at about 197,000 miles. I’ve been going crazy trying to figure out while the engine is vibrating horribly when at a red light and it’s a lot worse with the ac on. I’ve changed motor mounts, checked evap purge valve, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned throttle body, bought an aftermarket pcv valve from advanced auto parts, I even bought a smoke machine from Amazon and smoke tested the evap system and found a easy leak after the maf senso rand sealed it but that didn’t do much. I’m not sure if it matters since it’s before the maf sensor but th

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2014년식 · ACV50 (2011-2017) · 2.5 자동

변속기 오일 교환

Good evening. I got something I hope someone can help me out with. My son’s 2014 Jeep Patriot had the transmission replaced recently, and ever since there has been a noise that he hears whenever he starts to accelerate, when he slows to a stop, and whenever the transmission shifts. He took it back to the shop that replaced the transmission, they put another one in, and the noise persists. Then they thought maybe it was a CV shaft, but even after that the noise is still there. He sent me a video audio of the noise, about 33 seconds long. I’m wondering if maybe during the installation of the new

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MX5 (2023-현재) · 2.5 T-GDi 자동

변속기 오일 교환

Here’s the backstory, For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign “clunk”, and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it. So

Hey! The key to my 2006 Ford Mondeo wont open the hood for some reason… This is particularly bad due to the battery being dead after not being used for a few months. Anyone have any tips to fix this problem? (If its possible to fix) Additional information would be that the key fob usually works around 40% of the time so i resorted to using the manual key mostly, but now the manual key does not turn in the door either, so i’m pretty much hoping that the key fob will work if i want to use my car. Rather not go to a mechanic, broke student Perhaps issue with the electronic lock? Maybe its locked

현대 소나타

2008년식 · NF (2004-2009) · 2.0 LPi 자동

냉각수 교환

Coworker has a 2008 Hyundai Accent, which has overheated repeatedly, consumes a lot of coolant, and barely runs. He wants me to assist with repairing the engine, if possible. I assume by now, the head is warped or cracked, but what I am trying to determine is if the engine block in this model is iron or aluminum. If it’s iron, this can probably be repaired. If it’s aluminum, the entire engine would need to be replaced, which is more work than I would want to do.

My wife’s car is a 2007 Corolla. She told me the car is making a noise that sounds like a shifting bag of rice. I rode in the car and we stopped at the end of the street and then started into a left-handed u-turn and it sounded to me like we ran over some light gravel/sand on the right-front, but we didn’t - that was the sound. Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Happens when giving it gas while going into a sharp turn - either direction. She’s not sure that it happens 100% every time, but it does happen regularly. Hoping someone else here has experienced this sound before and can tell me what it is. Thank you

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2016년식 · JK (2006-2018) · 3.6 V6 Sport

미분류

My 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited with a 3.6L started taking a few seconds to start. Ran a scan and there’s no codes.

Problem began when I would sometimes have to press the push start button several times to get it to start (no crank), progressively got worse until it wouldn’t start. When I would jump it it wouldn’t start right away but eventually it would. Replaced (5 year old) battery), initially still wouldn’t start until jumped. Car then started fine for 4-5 days and I thought it was fixed until symptoms returned and again progressively got worse. Now I can’t get it to start even when jumped. Notes: When it won’t start it doesn’t crank at at all, it acts as if the button is not being pushed. There is an a

Hi, friends. Anyone know which of the two hoses on the power steering reservoir is the return line? I need to change the fluid in my 94 Camry with the 2.2 l. Alternatively, is there an easy way to differentiate between return and suction?

Hi, I have a 2010 Mazda 6 car. I received a letter for airbag recall. When I dropped my car for service they said it would 1 hr to fix the airbag. Later they called me and said the parts are not available and it would take another 1 month for the parts to arrive. The provided me with an alternative car. They parked my car in an open parking space. When I called after 1 month, they said its an early stage for the recall. They are not sure when the parts will come. Is it ok the leave the car idle for few months in an open space ? Any damage will happen to the car ? Thanks, Vijay

Now and then my 2016 Sonata Hybrid will start shaking. The first time it happened, I was on the highway and it felt like I was driving over (mild) speed bumps (but I wasn’t). When it happens, which isn’t frequent, it usually happens on the highway less then 10 minutes after entering and it lasts less than 30 seconds (but feels like forever). The check engine light will turn on, but when I get the check engine light’s records checked (which I’ve done 3 separate times), they never see any record of it coming on. Admittedly, besides getting oil changes, I don’t get any regular maintenance done. A

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

사고 차량 점검

VEHICLE STALL WHILE ON THE 75 FREEEWAY WHEN I WAS GOING 70 MPH. NO BREAK LIGHTS APPAREAR WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPING CAUSING ME TO ALMOST CRASH WITH OTHER VEHICLES ON THE FREEWAY. THIS IS THE 3RD TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME. I HAVE REPORTED THE ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES TO TOYOTA CUSTOMER SERVICE AND THE DEALERSHIP IN COBB COUNTY GEORGIA BUT NOTHING IS BEEN DONE. I THINK IT EITHER THE PISTOL OR THE FUEL PUMP. TOYOTA CASE # 2009280896 & TOYOTA CASE #2 -2009281300.