2014년식 · RM (2012-2017) · 2.0 자동
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2026. 7. 1. 작업
I drive a 2014 Honda CR-V. My steering wheel vibrates whenever my car speed is between 30-40 mph. Once past 40 mph, the vibration stops completely. While most explanation mentions about bad CV joint, motor mount, loose lug nuts, unbalanced tires, stuck brake caliper, etc but it doesn’t address the issue as to why it only vibrates between 30-40 mph and not before or after. It is very steady even from 60 mph and beyond. Any idea what is the problem?
Worn struts can display that characteristic. if the struts are worn to a point where they can no longer hold the tires to the ground, and you’re traveling at certain speeds that allows a certain frequency to develop, it can cause what’s called tire bounce. Tester
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원문 보기 ↗My 2017 Honda front wheel drive CRV has 21k miles with two original tires each with 6/32 tread remaining and two new tires due to non-repairable punctures. After the first new tire, the TPMS recalibrated correctly. However, after the second new tire, the TPMS monitor system warning continues to come on after a few miles of driving after TPMS recalibration commands. In my first discussion (telecom) with a local Honda dealer (where I bought the car) service advisor, I was told that I need to buy two more new tires so there would not be such a tread depth discrepancy. I expressed my dismay that I
My car honda CR-V is in pretty desperate need of new tires. I've put away a small amount from my last few paycheques, but it's not a whole lot. I'm curious as to whether you would feel it's a better choice to purchase cheap winter tires (GT Radial, Falken Tire, Ironman, etc.) or a high-quality all season? I can sink a little more if it means not having to purchase again in 6 months. By the way,I don't drive outside of the city at all in the winter. I only drive to and from work on major roadways and a couple side streets to get out of my community. Thanks everyone! After reading these response
My wife’s secondary car is a 2015 Honda CRV, with ~ 194,000 miles on it. She’s become reluctant to drive it far, because she believes/ has been told by someone that she should change out the alternator and the starter motor, before they fail. To date, neither has given any indication of trouble. Thoughts on replacing these two? (She actually does like this car, and somewhat prefers it over her 2021 CRV)
Hoping someone can chime in! About a month ago I noticed a light sort of growling sound after accelerating, usually within a minute or two of starting up the car (2013 Honda CR-V, ~150K miles). After a couple weeks it got worse and became a pretty regular grating/growling sort of noise when I’d accelerate. It has seemed less noticeable at highway speeds but otherwise became consistent when driving (not going away after the first couple minutes). After a couple attempts to figure it out a local mechanic who’s done other work on the car told me I needed a valve adjustment, that that was the prob
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Hello! I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with 185,000 miles on it. Things are tight financially right now and so I’ve been trying to get this car to last as long as possible before investing in a new one. A year or two ago, a mechanic told me that I needed to get a bunch of work done on my car. We did some of it but saved the front struts and CV axles and are now trying to decide if it’s worth it to spend the money on this. So, I’m asking for some advice from all of you. Is it worth spending the money? Will my car fall apart if I ignore these repairs? I need to get at least another year out of it
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2020 Honda Accord. I’m now realizing that the lower ball joints use self locking clinch nuts. Have never heard of clinch nuts before. Anyways the service information says to replace them. This is with regards to the lower three nuts that goes onto the studs, as opposed to castle nut that goes on top under the cv axle. See lots of people on youtube doing repairs which requires removing these nuts, and they go ahead and use the same old rusty nuts right back on. image 667×557 32.8 KB Looking online at this type of self locking technology. It is mostly used in sheet metal. A hole is drilled into
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Throw out bearing, input shaft bearing, or drive shaft support bearing?
차량 정보 없음
How to isolate a wheel bearing or a CV axle noise?