2015년식 · RM (2012-2017) · 2.0 자동
총 비용
-
공임
-
부품비
-
소요 시간
-
2026. 7. 1. 작업
My wife’s secondary car is a 2015 Honda CRV, with ~ 194,000 miles on it. She’s become reluctant to drive it far, because she believes/ has been told by someone that she should change out the alternator and the starter motor, before they fail. To date, neither has given any indication of trouble. Thoughts on replacing these two? (She actually does like this car, and somewhat prefers it over her 2021 CRV)
My thought is that, because both the alternator and the starter on this engine are reasonably accessible, replacing them when they actually fail should not be a big deal for a competent mechanic. Ergo–I wouldn’t replace them at this point… unless she is contemplating a long drive through a remote wilderness area. That being said, at close to 200k miles, it is likely that there will be upcoming transmission issues, and it might not be fiscally-feasible to pay ~$3,500 for a new transmission when the vehicle may only be worth $7k-$8k. In other words, if you pay for pre-emptive starter & alternator replacement, only to be faced with the need for a trans overhaul, you might easily have wasted your money on the starter/alternator repairs.
출처
이 사례는 CarTalk (미국)에서 수집한 데이터입니다.
신뢰도 2.5점(참고용) — 출처 소스의 전문성/검증구조를 기준으로 산정된 점수이며, 정확성을 보장하지 않습니다.
원문 보기 ↗My 2017 Honda front wheel drive CRV has 21k miles with two original tires each with 6/32 tread remaining and two new tires due to non-repairable punctures. After the first new tire, the TPMS recalibrated correctly. However, after the second new tire, the TPMS monitor system warning continues to come on after a few miles of driving after TPMS recalibration commands. In my first discussion (telecom) with a local Honda dealer (where I bought the car) service advisor, I was told that I need to buy two more new tires so there would not be such a tread depth discrepancy. I expressed my dismay that I
I drive a 2014 Honda CR-V. My steering wheel vibrates whenever my car speed is between 30-40 mph. Once past 40 mph, the vibration stops completely. While most explanation mentions about bad CV joint, motor mount, loose lug nuts, unbalanced tires, stuck brake caliper, etc but it doesn’t address the issue as to why it only vibrates between 30-40 mph and not before or after. It is very steady even from 60 mph and beyond. Any idea what is the problem?
My car honda CR-V is in pretty desperate need of new tires. I've put away a small amount from my last few paycheques, but it's not a whole lot. I'm curious as to whether you would feel it's a better choice to purchase cheap winter tires (GT Radial, Falken Tire, Ironman, etc.) or a high-quality all season? I can sink a little more if it means not having to purchase again in 6 months. By the way,I don't drive outside of the city at all in the winter. I only drive to and from work on major roadways and a couple side streets to get out of my community. Thanks everyone! After reading these response
Hoping someone can chime in! About a month ago I noticed a light sort of growling sound after accelerating, usually within a minute or two of starting up the car (2013 Honda CR-V, ~150K miles). After a couple weeks it got worse and became a pretty regular grating/growling sort of noise when I’d accelerate. It has seemed less noticeable at highway speeds but otherwise became consistent when driving (not going away after the first couple minutes). After a couple attempts to figure it out a local mechanic who’s done other work on the car told me I needed a valve adjustment, that that was the prob
차량 정보 없음
I have a 2006 Toyota Rav4 - The other day, the car wouldn't start. We jumped the battery and it started right up. No lights were left on and nothing is plugged in that would be causing this. I took it to the dealership and they said the battery was fine. Every morning it struggles to start, but eventually starts up. The dealership said it may be because I don't drive it far enough daily - However, I drive the car every day and I don't think that is the problem. Does this sound like an issue with the alternator or starter - or does it just sound like the battery is bad - but was charged after j
차량 정보 없음
1993 f150 4.9 5 speed manual Having bucking issues while accelerating. When I got the truck a month ago, it would only happen once in a while. Mainly on the highway and would just cut out for a few seconds then kick back on. I ignored it and it drove very nicely. No matter the load or rpm, it drove fine. Until a couple weeks ago it was cutting out again. I noticed the voltage gauge was going crazy. I noticed the bolts attaching the alternator case together were loose. I tightened the bolts and haven’t had an issue for a few weeks…. Until Yesterday, I started the truck and started driving and i
토요타 캠리
The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Camry. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost motive power. There was a message displayed that the engine was off the instrument panel. The contact was able to restart the vehicle and continue driving. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, who was unable to diagnose the failure. The vehicle was taken to a certified mechanic, who diagnosed that there was a low-pressure fuel pump failure. The contact stated that the battery, alternator, and drive belt were replaced. The contact stated that the failure persisted. The vehicle was retur
차량 정보 없음
For example, it seems switching from some high wattage headlights to much lower wattage LED's frees up more of the alternator's power capacity. But, does this mean the alternator (or other electrical components like the voltage regulator) will start to run hotter? (to dissipate excess power via heat?) Or, does the decrease in overall electrical load simply get handled by just easing up the load on the engine making it easier to spin the alternator in the first place?