2014년식 · 3세대 (2013-2021) · 3.5
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2026. 7. 1. 작업
2014 Acura TSX, 157k miles, this car has an overflow coolant reservoir Yesterday I noticed a bubble sound when shutting off car. I noticed the coolant level in the reservoir was at the MIN mark. Thankfully the car didn’t run hot. After letting the car cool off, I toped it off to the MAX line. The problem is I did a complete drain and refill about 30k miles ago. This seems excessive to me, for the level to go from MAX to MIN in ~30k miles. I don’t know if this is normal? I haven’t noticed any leaks, but based on the rate I’m loosing coolant it seems like I’m loosing coolant somewhere. I didn’t
pokemonyouandme123_193319: 2014 Acura TSX, 157k miles, this car has an overflow coolant reservoir Yesterday I noticed a bubble sound when shutting off car. I noticed the coolant level in the reservoir was at the MIN mark. Thankfully the car didn’t run hot. After letting the car cool off, I toped it off to the MAX line. The problem is I did a complete drain and refill about 30k miles ago. This seems excessive to me, for the level to go from MAX to MIN in ~30k miles. I don’t know if this is normal? I haven’t noticed any leaks, but based on the rate I’m loosing coolant it seems like I’m loosing coolant somewhere. I didn’t have the chocolate milkshake of death the last time I did an oil change, but I do have to add about half a quart of oil every 3k miles of conventional oil, when I was using
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원문 보기 ↗2014 Acura TSX, 4 Cylinder, AT, about 160k miles Two days ago when I got in my car, the brake pedal was really hard to press down. This was after it sat overnight, and it’s within single digits so extremely cold. The car was very difficult to stop and I had to press the brake pedal down with great force. I gave the brake pedal several hard presses in rapidly, and then everything was fine. I think it’s likely some moisture got in the brake booster or hose and froze? Looking on ShopKey, this car doesn’t appear to have a check valve in the hose that goes to the brake booster. I know some cars hav
UPDATE: Both tie rods were removed by unscrewing the inner tie-rod from vehicle: rotated steering wheel to maximum to improve access removed bellows boot to expose wrench-able area of inner tie rod used inner tie rod socket with pipe wrench to unscrew inner tie rod GOAL: 95 Acura Integra left inner+outer tie-rod replacement. This challenge was identified after resolving: Difficulty removing Outer Tie Rod from steering knuckle Outer tie rod removed from steering knuckle (see photo) Jam-nut loosened (red-box in photo) Uppermost part of rod is in a rotating socket (similar to a human arm). Attemp
Hi, I have Acura RDX 2015 model. Since I moved from Seattle to Kansas City, based on different temperature (which swings from 20 to near 100), I keep seeing different alert for tire pressure. My daily commute is around 50 miles. Please see these two pictures in this link, which were taken just couple of days away - Imgur: The magic of the Internet What TP should I keep ideally which would be okay for cold as well as hot weather? Please advice. Thanks
On my '95 Acura Integra LS, the driver's side outer tie rod is embedded in the steering knuckle. I am unable to loosen the jam-nut. How do I remove the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle? This photo shows that upward force applied by jack is insufficient to remove the outer tie rod. (The vehicle has been properly secured on jack stands.) Follow-up: How to unscrew inner and outer tie rods?
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Temperature Guage doesn’t work, fan on motor runs, air conditioner doesn’t work when this happens and message says, “steering assist reduced, drive with caution.” Replaced temperature coolant sensor, still having problem.
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I am trying to troubleshoot a 4runner with 135k miles, auto, 3.4 V6 California emissions. This is the freeze data: PID Description Value Units 0x02 Freeze frame DTC P0420 - 0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix - 0x04 Calculated load value 34.12 % 0x05 Engine coolant temperature 197.6 F 0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 0.78 % 0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 3.91 % 0x0C Engine RPM 2287 RPM 0x0D Vehicle speed 68.97 MPH 0x0F Intake air temperature 95 F So far the front and back Ox sensor was replaced and the MAF cleaned to clear a P0171 co
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Been a long day. Im not good at putting pictures on here. So ill try again. This is on my 89 year old moms ford explorer.its a 2012 she bought new. 3.5 engine. All work has been done at the local Ford dealer. 75k miles. I looked it over and decided to check the air filters and a few other things. I noticed the coolant looks pink, it should be orange. She has ever receipt from the dealer service. Its never had any work done involving coolant. Just tire rotation and oil changes. Sad to say she’s never even had them change the air filters. So im wondering why does the coolant look pink? 20260102_
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Coworker has a 2008 Hyundai Accent, which has overheated repeatedly, consumes a lot of coolant, and barely runs. He wants me to assist with repairing the engine, if possible. I assume by now, the head is warped or cracked, but what I am trying to determine is if the engine block in this model is iron or aluminum. If it’s iron, this can probably be repaired. If it’s aluminum, the entire engine would need to be replaced, which is more work than I would want to do.