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2026. 7. 1. ์ž‘์—…

๋‚œ์ด๋„ & ์ค€๋น„๋ฌผ

๋‚œ์ด๋„ ๋ณดํ†ตโฑ ์˜ˆ์ƒ 60~180๋ถ„๐Ÿ”ง ์ „์šฉ ์ง„๋‹จ๊ธฐ

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There are many discussions regarding steel vs. alloy wheels in Winter on multiple forums. It would be good if someone could lay out full facts and help scale these differences (questions below) . For Steel wheels: Less expensive Uniform and made mostly of stamped steel May bend from potholes or any collisions Rusts if the paint layer wears off For Alloy wheels: More expensive Mostly cast aluminum alloys More sturdy through potholes, will crack and break on hard collisions Salt will wear off the alloy Better looks and choice in design The key questions are as follows. Please remember we are tal

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Bob cross makes some good points, however, I would offer the following opinions: Winter tires don't have the dry grip that summer tires do. Your "high performance" handling will be limited with your winter tires on. Therefore, I wouldn't be too concerned about the incremental difference in handling due to the difference in unsprung weight between steel and alloy wheels. So while Bob Cross is absolutely correct that lighter wheels do handle and ride better, it may not be worth it to spend the additional money for lighter wheels for your winter tires . In terms of resistance to bending when you hit potholes, any wheel can be damaged when driven through potholes. The best protection is to pick a wheel/tire combination with a reasonably tall sidewall, keep the tires properly inflated, and avoid driving through potholes! With winter tires, I generally choose a smaller wheel diameter and taller tire sidewall than for my summer tires. This affords me more protection from pothole damage, and I

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์ด ์‚ฌ๋ก€๋Š” Stack Exchange (๋ฏธ๊ตญ)์—์„œ ์ˆ˜์ง‘ํ•œ ๋ฐ์ดํ„ฐ์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

์‹ ๋ขฐ๋„ 2.8์ (์ฐธ๊ณ ์šฉ) โ€” ์ถœ์ฒ˜ ์†Œ์Šค์˜ ์ „๋ฌธ์„ฑ/๊ฒ€์ฆ๊ตฌ์กฐ๋ฅผ ๊ธฐ์ค€์œผ๋กœ ์‚ฐ์ •๋œ ์ ์ˆ˜์ด๋ฉฐ, ์ •ํ™•์„ฑ์„ ๋ณด์žฅํ•˜์ง€ ์•Š์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

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cerb4.5lee said: I can't think of these without thinking about the pedal box in them to be honest. I reckon that there's more room in my Caterham's pedal box than there is in these for sure. Such fond memories of these and the VTS though, don't get me wrong. Those with even slightly approaching average feet I feel would come up against the steering column. I dove one and liked it in period and recommended it for the Mrs at the time (she had/has small feet).Never bought it. This one would be a time warp! Just donโ€™t crash it

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Jte3397 said: With a few notable exceptions that are mainly at the high end of the market, car as investment is best viewed as a way to justify what is ultimately not a sensible hobby. I'm about break even on my M3 if I ignore what I could have done with the money instead.We had a Ignis Sport that we bought in 2013. 41k miles, 1 previous owner for ยฃ1900 (ยฃ2700 in todays money) and we sold it ten years later in 2023 for ยฃ3000 on 116k miles so made ยฃ300 profit. The 17 year old lad I sold it to crashed it within a month of passing his test. My Celica GT-Four I paid ยฃ3000 (ยฃ4500 in todays money)

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XTR2Turbo said: I am curious how many of the EV's sold in the last 10 years will still be on the road in another 10 - 15 years though. Already cars younger than that are broken for their batteries and uneconomic to repair if accident damage or faults. Predicted EV Vehicle life expectancy is 16 years. Car lifespans take into account those that are written off which is why when you look around you see plenty of cars older than 15 years. If you were to remove early life write offs then the average age is close or greater than 20. As for EVs, between 2010 and 2020 just 100,000 EVs were sold, a

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I'll always remember overtaking 3 cars in a row years back in my Sierra XR4x4, and the one in the middle didn't look and crashed into the side of me whilst I was overtaking. So I've always been a bit nervous doing that ever since really, I've still done it don't get me wrong, but I just hope that the other drivers are concentrating when I've done it though.

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