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Hi, I need serious help. I have a 2013 Subaru Outback that since I bought it, has had a rhythmic humming noise/vibration when at highway speeds (55-70). Sounds like a hum, hum, hum once per second. Vibration doesn’t shake the wheel, but you can feel it in the floorboards. Rhythm gets faster when driving around a curve to the left, quieter when curving to the right. I’ve taken it to several shops (including a Subaru dealer) and was told it is not the wheel bearings and those are fine. They told me it was because the tires were cupped and new tires would fix it, but getting new tires did not fix

토요타 캠리

2017년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

엔진오일 교환

OK, tires looked ok for a while, no indication of other maintenance in the list in the manual. Maybe new tires next year, no long road trips. Will try the voltmeter test on brake fluid, your thoughts? 2017 28k miles. Yearly oil change to maintain bumper to bumper Toyota warranty warranty, expires May 2027. Bought it in 2020 before lease expired, and is good for 7year 70k miles from date of purchase. Was $1400 toyesst 1920×1440 321 KB toytire 1920×2560 552 KB

Any leads on diagnosing this issue will be much appreciated! A year or more ago, I got this car running again after I bypassed the fuel pump relay and also did a DIY injector cleaning by repeated pouring Berryman’s B-12 Chemtool straight into throttle body throat, in small amounts, then cranking with starter spray. Car first only sputtered. Got better with repeated injector treatments outlined above and soon ran fine. Recently, it stopped behaving! I can hear the fuel pump prime and I THINK I’m getting fuel into the fuel rail…though not certain. At least once, by depressing schraeder valve nee

I know I’m using the right port. I am not using the high pressure port. And I can not for the life of me fit the hose onto the low pressure port to charge my ac. I pressed the cap down and tried to fit it on the low pressure, I’m doing everything right, and I cant figure out why it wont fit. If I press it down while holding down the lever on the hose I will hear pressure escaping from the port but it wont attach.

I have a car with top end noise. Cam in block, pushrod, ohv rocker arm design. Not a tap but more like a light rattle. I removed the hyd lifters and noticed I could push plunger down with my finger and oil squirted out side oil port on 2 of the lifters. The other lifters were pumped up and I could not compress plungers. Car was run yesterday so it had not been sitting days/weeks. Is this typical lifter action or does this point to the 2 lifters having issues?

My brake calipers are very rusty. Was thinking about evapoelrust, and painting. But after thinking about it longer, I’m questioning if this is a good idea. The piston and bore are a highly polished surface that needs to be smooth. Wouldn’t evaporust etch the piston bore and the piston, resulting in none smooth surface?

My 07 Impala stopped blowing air so I got a new blower motor. I take the old one out, connect the plug to the new one and nothing. I took a multi meter and connected it’s leads to the plug that goes to the blower motor to see if it’s getting power. As I turned the fan up and down, the meter also went up and down. I’m assuming it’s getting power. Since the meter went up and down along with the fan speed dial, I’m assuming the resistor is working. Next I connect the new blower motor plug with some wires directly to the car battery to make sure the it’s not defective. The blower motor seemed to w

2005 Camry. Not driven much, around the block twice once a week. The car will not start. When I attempt to start it, I hear a bunch of clicks. Last couple of starts, cranking seemed sluggish. I measured the voltage at the battery terminal and got 11.79 volts, with the car at rest, and not attempting to start it. The battery is from January 2019. It is an AutoCraft Gold, Part Number 24F-6. It has a rated capacity of 750 CCA. I used a performance tool battery tester. image 636×577 59.9 KB It’s not to intuitive on how to use it. But upon connecting it to the battery I get “BATTERY TEST” and selec

포드 F-150

2021년식 · 14세대 (2021-현재) · 2.7T XLT

배터리 교환

If I open the driver side door on my F-150 while the motor is running the transmission locks in gear and will not let me put it onto park which would allow me to crank it. I can disconnect the battery cables and it will eventually put itself into park and I can crank it. This has been going on for several months. When it first started it would reset in 30 mins or so but now is taking overnight. I’ve not tried it to see if this happens with any other doors bc I don’t want to intentionally make it happen. HELP and thank you.

In May 2024, one of my coils went bad (car started misfiring, like it was going to stall). They replaced that coil. Six months later, same thing happened and they replaced another coil. Then in October 2025, same thing happened on the way home from work. Had it towed back to the same shop and they replaced it under warranty. Happened again in November. Same thing, had it towed, and replaced another one which was not technically under warranty but they took care of me anyway. So my question is, why does this keep happening? What can cause coils to keep going bad? The repair guy was just like, “

Hi, I have Acura RDX 2015 model. Since I moved from Seattle to Kansas City, based on different temperature (which swings from 20 to near 100), I keep seeing different alert for tire pressure. My daily commute is around 50 miles. Please see these two pictures in this link, which were taken just couple of days away - Imgur: The magic of the Internet What TP should I keep ideally which would be okay for cold as well as hot weather? Please advice. Thanks

Hi all, These are the issues of a Maserati 1990 (Quattroporte) 422, 2000 SL.6 cylinders, fule injection.The car lives in Greece, and is in pristine condition. 1) The rpms go up when the engine is idle (no gear?) e.g when you stop at a light. Apparently this is an unexpected behavior. Could you give me a list of possible reasons? 2)When we start the car and/or go from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine doesn’t “fire” right away. There is a lag, as if the car stops. Thanks Vasso

2014 Acura TSX, 4 Cylinder, AT, about 160k miles Two days ago when I got in my car, the brake pedal was really hard to press down. This was after it sat overnight, and it’s within single digits so extremely cold. The car was very difficult to stop and I had to press the brake pedal down with great force. I gave the brake pedal several hard presses in rapidly, and then everything was fine. I think it’s likely some moisture got in the brake booster or hose and froze? Looking on ShopKey, this car doesn’t appear to have a check valve in the hose that goes to the brake booster. I know some cars hav

i have a 2005 saab 92x which i know has a subaru engine. would i be better off using a subaru mechanic for maintenance/repairs? i live south of boston. any recommendations?

The old winter car 98 Lesabre has been acting up recently. Monday when a few miles from home it started going between gears upshifting and downshifting and giving a decent clunk when starting from a dead stop, Checked the Trany fluid level and it was not low, A bit over full. It sat in the yard for maybe an hour, and I took it for a ride, It worked perfect. Tuesday it worked fine till 10 miles from home and did the same thing. I went slow and made it home No problem. When this happens the cruise control never works. Today the transmission worked well, the cruise did go out for a short time the

혼다 CR-V

2014년식 · RM (2012-2017) · 2.0 자동

드라이브샤프트 교환

I drive a 2014 Honda CR-V. My steering wheel vibrates whenever my car speed is between 30-40 mph. Once past 40 mph, the vibration stops completely. While most explanation mentions about bad CV joint, motor mount, loose lug nuts, unbalanced tires, stuck brake caliper, etc but it doesn’t address the issue as to why it only vibrates between 30-40 mph and not before or after. It is very steady even from 60 mph and beyond. Any idea what is the problem?

토요타 캠리

2018년식 · ACV70 (2017-현재) · 2.5 자동

정기점검

I am reporting a severe safety and vehicle integrity issue involving a Toyota vehicle purchased from Wolfchase Toyota. After a technical inspection (Invoice #XXX), it was confirmed that the Engine VIN does not match the Chassis VIN. This indicates an undocumented engine replacement of unknown origin and mileage. As a result, the vehicle's safety systems, engine performance, and structural integrity are unverified and potentially compromised. The dealership and Toyota North America have been notified of this 'Frankenstein' engine configuration but have not removed the vehicle from the road, fo

If so, we want to hear about it! (If you can bear to recount the sordid details, that is.) For the next few weeks, we’ll be gathering your favorite or, rather, least-favorite tales of road trips gone by. Stories of 2,000 miles spent with a brutish Mother-in-Law ordering you to slow down, every single mile. Tales of roadkill in the grille, engine fires, and vacation days spent in lonely backwaters, waiting for that new fan belt. You can post your roadtrip from hell stories right here. We’ll pick a few of our favorites, and share them with our listeners in a few weeks. And, as always – thanks! T

and today i drove on some dirt roads and felt something rub on the bottom of my car so i inspected below and it seems one of the rubber boots is missing a clamp? any advice or input? my car clicks when it turns at low speeds but otherwise drives fine. i am asking can i just drive it and not get it repaired? i am poor and i am delivery driver for a living and dont have expendable income. IMG_6336 1334×750 150 KB

I tried to clean off a blob of white paint on the rear side marker light’s lens. I guessed it was latex. It wouldn’t come off with fingernail or plastic scraper. I didn’t want to use a metal scraper so I painted on a bit of Citristrip, figuring it wouldn’t harm plastic. I was wrong. It seems to have stripped off most of the orange-ness of that part of the lens. I suspect it’s just as functional as a rear side marker, so I won’t replace it, but if there’s a fix I’d like to try it.

I replaced the power steering pump on my U code engine and am having difficulty knowing the configuration of the high pressure seal(s) at the pump. I would be interested in knowing the exact part number and the specific location of the teflon seal, and if there is a second rubber 0-ring at the tip. Any input is appreciated - - thanks

08 Prius. Had brake/caliper work done on the left tire about a month ago Driving around today I notice kind of a metallic clumping noise when braking coming to a stop from the RIGHT tire. After driving in the free way, my brake, abs, vsc lights came on. Is this relevant to the work done? I don’t even know where to start looking Ps. The clunking noise was repeatable for a duration and then its not that noticeable or any at all

I have a 07 zap xebra truck. The seal at the rear of the master cylinder has given up and leaks fluid into the cab floor. I removed the maser cylinder and have disassembled. Problem is the there are no parts available for these guys. I’ve measured the rear seal and it is 20mm OD and 13mm ID. It has u shape profile. Where can I find such a seal? Is there a place to cross reference the dimensions of such parts? Thanks

I have a 2016 Subaru Forester with a persistent “passenger airbag off” message and an illuminated airbag light on the instrument cluster. My current code reader doesn’t have the capacity to read any codes associated with that system, so any advice about an affordable code reader that would work for this particular problem would be welcome. I love buying new toys but affordability is always an issue. Ideas? I’ve tried resetting the light by disconnecting the battery for a few hours but that didn’t seem to accomplish much. There was a recall on the harness that was completed in 2021, but I don’t