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2026. 7. 26. 작업
TGCOTF-dewey said: Interested to hear a bit more on the 9 > 8 engine swap. I've seen the odd one and every write up suggests it's a PITA to work out. This must be 10+ years ago on MLR though. Is it straight fwd now? Hi, I imagine the whole process is pretty well documented by now. I did mine in 2010, it's probs mine you remember from threads about it on the MLR if you were on then. I didn't do an engine swap, just put the entire MIVEC top end on to the original block. That in itself is pretty straightforward, other than figuring out a way to get an additional oil supply to the head.At the t
So, it bluffed it's way through for another year! I ended up taking it to a place a few miles away, which was handy as I needed to burn off half a tank of 2 year old fuel while driving off boost. After getting the tank down to almost empty and brimming it with it's favourite tipple of VPower, I selected the low boost setting of 1.2 bar and set about reminding myself after 26 months without it, why I adore this car. There's witchcraft going on here. I have a 987 Boxster 3.2S and a Mk1 MR2, both great cars. The Evo, despite the weight it carries with all the 4 wheel drive hardware etc, somehow makes both of those cars feel clumsy, the way it turns in and just dances through bends, the feeling of weightlessness and endless grip, the throttle adjustability, all really defy physics.My suspicions that it wouldn't hit the target of 1.8 on the high boost map were confirmed, with a max of 1.4 showing on the gauge. To that end, I removed the battery and tray to access this, which is my first line of interrogation...........aftermarket 3 port boost solenoid. These usually fail in a way that only allows 0.8 bar, but the first one I fitted, seemingly not liking an extended period of lack of use when I was changing the head and turbo etc, restricted boost to 1.4 bar which prematurely ended a mapping session. It took me ages to dope out what was wrong the last time, that sensor was relatively new, whereas this one is probs 13 years old now. So, at less than £60 delivered, and with the symptoms of the current problem similar to the first, it's ordered for tomorrow, and hopefully a quick and easy fix. It's come to light that there a million cheap Chinese copies of these now. I've ordered mine form a reputable source ( R-spec performance in Bicester, thanks Dave ), so I at least should be able to rule this out even if it doesn't fix it.With the battery and tray out, I thought I'd try and address another long standing and, on the forums, frequently mentioned issue with Evo's, that be
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원문 보기 ↗BMW 5시리즈
M135i 구매 후 첫 서비스와 MoT 예정. BMW 메인 딜러가 과도하게 문제를 부풀릴 수 있다는 우려. 딜러가 타이어 트레드 깊이를 자세히 언급하며 불필요한 부품 교체를 권유하는 경향 있음.
차량 정보 없음
2003 링컨 LS 변속기가 3단으로 들어갈 때 쿵쿵거리는 음이 남. 악화되어 변속기 관련 고장코드 발생. 솔레노이드 팩 교체 후에도 여전히 쿵쿵거림이 있으나 정도는 약함. 이제는 2단에서 쿵쿵거림. 오버드라이브(4단)로 변속 안 됨. 엔진은 정상 작동.
BMW 5시리즈
M135i 첫 서비스와 MOT 예정인 상황에서 BMW 메인 딜러의 과도한 수리 권고에 대한 우려. 타이어 트레드 깊이 등 불필요한 부품 교체 권유 경험.
차량 정보 없음
MadsMan said: The wheel colour and tints were probably as it was spec'ed when new. Mine came like that. It's a 2012 PPP car too.I am always surprised by the stories about MPG. I've never reset the trip computer in the nearly 6 years I've had it, so this is my true combined figure from commuting, fast driving tours, school run etc. Taken a few minutes ago on holiday in the south of France:It's currently on W205 wheels as the bigger side wall of the 18s helps the ride, they're a bit wider and the originals crack easily:Your colour combo is mega too!Would love to know what tyres your running on