CR3 (2022-현재) · 1.5T AWD
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2026. 8. 18. 작업
Yazza54 said: You can't beat watching an analogue tachometer wipe the clock, especially on something revvy. Old school all the way I hear you. The adu was the easy route plug and play plus doubles up as a proper 25hz GPS lap timer. With that extra module. First choice now is definitely the speed hut gauges.
sorry ive been really hectic at work so not been getting any solid hours in on the build. although there has beeen a wee bit of progress shes definately going to stop. also a massive weght saving over the m16 2 pots! the M16'd according to google are around 4 kg. the powerlites are 1kg ive also gone for alloy hubs which saves another KG. also gone for solid discs, which will save some over vented as well. 4kg saving of unsprung weight per side. over the last car should make a hell of a differeance. that not including the disc weight differance or the tublular TCA's vrs cast ones so there more than 4kg saved too still cant decide what to do withthe stalk vs buttons, as i dont really want a telephone cable flapping about like a WRC car. and im not paying £500 plus for a wireles kit. made a much more compact housing for the tractor stalk if i can bend the arm nicely i think it could work well. and once its painted black and fully flush with the dash you wont really notice it. needs abit more tiddying up but im going to wait till the gauges come as its so tight on the dash i need to make sure ecerything clears. the eyewateringly exspensive parts are starting to go in. after speeding pushed the dates back 3 months for there cheapy pdm, that was going to be abit of a bodge as its a sealed unit that wont talk outside its own keypad. i decided to bite the bullet and use the ecu master PDM thats fully programable with 16 outputs and i thin 8 or 10 external imputs so i can use things like the stalk/wheel buttons and ecu to control functions. its alot of money but it will massively neaten up the wireing and do away with all relays and fuses . (might need the harzards on a seprate circuit, for the IVA. as needs to work withthe ignition off) finally got the other bulge, honey bourne moldings has gone bust. just before christmas. but luckily my molding was already made so the recivers have sent it out rather than have me down as another debtor. so that should
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원문 보기 ↗Sure thing.
브레이크액 누수 경고등 점등 (헤어핀 구간에서), 프론트 캘리퍼 누수, 리어 브레이크 호스 누수, 오프사이드 프론트 볼 조인트 너트 풀림, CV 부츠 클립 탈거로 인한 금속성 딱딱거리는 소음 (엔진룸 뒤쪽에서 발생), 엔진 커버 페인트 손상
2013 Honda CR-V 자동변속기. 수개월 전 연석과 충돌 후 차량 정차 중 심한 진동 발생. 엔진이 눈에 띄게 흔들림. 프레임에 약간의 휨이 있는 것으로 진단됨. AC 켜면 진동 악화, 꺼도 지속됨.
혼다 비트(PP) | 휠 인치다운 | 공정1: 프론트 14 리어 15도 괜찮지만 | 공정2: 스톡해둔 13인치 6J+32 14인치 6J+38 레이즈를 화이트에서 블랙으로 도장 의뢰. 도장에 6개월 대기 끝에 완성됨. | 공정3: 꽤 좋음
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croyde said: Out of interest is a 40kw battery physically bigger, by a lot, than a 27kw. I have a 1.2kw battery in my Bigster Hybrid and I was surprised how big that is, when I saw a diagram, and it takes a bit of space up in the boot compared to the Mild Hybrid version. It’s going to be roughly 1.5 times bigger. Capacity is measured in kWh (kW hours) not kW which is a measure of power only.
혼다 어코드
2019 오디세이를 리콜 수리를 위해 딜러십에 입고했는데, 시동이 걸리지 않는다며 배터리가 방전되었다고 주장함. 그 전까지는 밴에서 이러한 문제가 없었음. 딜러십에서 배터리 교체에 약 $400을 요구함. 픽업 후 그날 나머지 시간 동안 4번 이상 시동을 걸었으나 문제없음. 오늘 다시 시동이 걸리지 않는 문제 발생.
아우디 A4
I quite like it, but it is heavy (internet says 1,840 kg to 1,910 kg). That’s a lot for a small-ish car.Our i3 is 1,195 kg to 1,345 kg - I guess the bigger battery is mostly to blame for that? Though no mention of a carbon tub either….,
BMW M3
WhisperingWasp said: It's missing that and heated seats. Of the two I think I'd choose the seats in my older age! That bugged me too; they gave you nav, the posh stereo, electric seats but scrimped on heated seats and cruise. At least the latter is an easy retrofit.