J01 (2023-현재) · E 일렉트릭
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2026. 8. 21. 작업
First of the '26 updates!MCSIt has returned! I am fresh off picking her up today and after taking a late afternoon blast to get petrol. She drives soooooooo well, I am genuinely chuffed. Which really is a good thing as it has been away for 6 months. She feels wonderfully compliant with the new Konis, which definitely supports my decision to not go coilovers. But even that has been a test.So the car would have been ready about 2 weeks ago, but one of the new Koni rear dampers decided to catastrophically fail on the first test drive and literally came apart. I've gone back to Larkspeed who suppl
samoht said: I'm very fond of my Polestar 2 after a year, such a great daily driver. Nothing like an FD, but great for long trips. They're bringing out a replacement next year so I think they're doing good value deals currently, and high-spec AFAIK.Yea there are very good deals at the moment, I am certainly happy. It's got the Pilot, Plus and Climate packs. So basically more toys than I'll ever need! PovertyPrince said: We have two PS2 s in the house.Utterly amazing vehicles, they really do it all. Great feedback, sounds like I'll be sorted for 4 years then! FiestaThe Fiesta has had some moments in the past few weeks. Although I think it is also down to some poor work in its history.So the long and short of it, I was rattling around on my week off and pulled up to the lights with my window down, and a very kind couple pulled up next to me and shouted my brake lights were on all the time Got home and checked, low and behold they were on all the time. Now I went with the basic fault finding assumption that all the wiring to the rear lights was fine being as they were on. So the next culprit was going to be the brake pedal switch, while bumbling around in the footwell I found the following..These felt pads were a group of 3 stuck together. At this point I was wondering where on earth it had come from. I quickly worked it out, as I got my head into the pedal area. To have a look at the swtich.So instead of adjusting the brake switch position, they stuck 3 pads together and plopped it on the brake pedal, this was what was keeping the brake lights off and had obviously fallen off as the glue dried out So I twisted the switch 90 degrees, adjusted it down, clicked it back 90 degrees and bobs your uncle. Surely it would have taken longer to go and find some sticky pads and wiggle them in rather than do it properly. Unless I have missed something blatently obvious Then the drivers door card needed to come off and be refitted as the trim clip failed somehow, or I didn't po
출처
이 사례는 PistonHeads에서 수집한 데이터입니다.
신뢰도 4.1점(높음) — 출처 소스의 전문성/검증구조를 기준으로 산정된 점수이며, 정확성을 보장하지 않습니다.
원문 보기 ↗R56 트레일링 암 업그레이드 검토 중. 리어 서스펜션 작업 중 탭(tap)이 약간 어긋나서 반대쪽 끝에서 훨씬 더 벗어남. 탭이 더 이상 돌아가지 않을 정도까지 진행되었고, 트레일링 암이 튀어나와서 볼트 손상 우려.
tallpaul26 said: Thank you for this public service announcement. I've filed it firmly under 'jobs never to attempt myself!'Actually wasn't that bad.One of those jobs that took ages because I was trying to do it without taking something else off, i.e. the brake servo.Once I'd decided to remove the servo, it took 20 minutes, whereas I'd spent an hour and 20minutes trying to do it without removing the servo, although admittedly, given the current status of the car, removing the servo was much easier than it would of been had I had to drain the brake fluid and if there had been an engine in the w
MDifficult said: Resist the temptation on the lights MDifficult said: For the cig smells, try a good wet vac and then a load of baking soda sprinkled everywhere (once it’s dry) then dry vac. It’s amazing what it’ll pull out! Thanks, I'll give it a go. rickygolf83 said: Nice work, i am currently removing the subframe and tank on my R53.... replacing everything front to back, with all the parts sitting waiting to go I'm doing the same, although I'm buying the parts as I go along, which may delay things a bit.rickygolf83 said: Did you watch Hyphens R53 resto on youtube by chance? He was us
rickygolf83 said: Nice work again. Yours looks the same as mine inside at the moment..... seats out and carpet folder towards the front i'll buy your home made press for the repair panel lol same repair needed on mine Making the panel is the easy part, welding it in was less so, mainly because I had to cut so much out it made it awkward to get in with the torch.Hopefully you won't need to cut as much out as I did.
미쓰비시 아웃랜더
Japdays (2026) / Modifierade strålkastare med LCD display :) / Japfest Holland (2026) / Japfest Holland (2026) / Testar nya coilovers :) / Tomei Extreme titanium avgassystem :D! / Japfest Holland (2025) / Rasad växellåda så fick bli ny låda och 2 skivig koppling :) (2024) / Ambilight installerad (2024) / Custom tour (2024) / Genomgång och lackering av front/huv. (2024) / Japdays (2023)
혼다 시빅
2008 Civic EX 5단 자동변속기 - 에어 서스펜션과 파워 스티어링 유체, 엔진오일 정비 후 리버스와 드라이브 기어에서 정차 상태일 때 프론트 엔드에서 심한 진동 발생. 파크와 뉴트럴에서는 진동 없음. 정비 2일 전에는 증상 없었음. 변속기 자체는 건드리지 않음.
마쯔다 마쯔다3
2008 Mazda 3 에어컨이 냉각 안 됨. 겨울 후 봄에 접어들면서 문제 발생. AC 켰을 때 클러치 회전 확인됨, 꺼졌을 때 멈춤. 분쇄음 없음. 저압 포트에서 냉매 게이지 확인 결과 레드존(고압 상태)을 나타냄. 냉매 병입 시도했으나 이미 고압 상태.
차량 정보 없음
마스터 실린더(M/C) 블리딩 시 페달을 눌렀다 놨을 때 유체 흐름의 작동 원리 이해 부족. 페달을 누르면 피스톤이 우측으로 이동하여 흡입 포트를 차단하고, 휠 실린더 블리더를 열면 M/C 피스톤 캐비티(스프링이 있는 부분)가 압축되어 블리더를 통해 유체가 배출됨. 블리더를 닫고 페달을 놓으면 피스톤이 좌측으로 복귀하려 하는데, 피스톤 캐비티가 확장하려면 리저버에서 새로운 유체가 공급되어야 하는 메커니즘이 불명확함.