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2026. 7. 1. 작업
For just about every car, there's at least two different "maximum tire pressure" ratings. The vehicle manufacturer's rating. This is usually found on a sticker attached to the driver's door. The tire manufacturer's rating. This is usually found on the side-wall of each tire. Given this, I've actually got two questions here. I'm fairly certain I know the answer to the first, but would rather the answerers here respond to confirm. The second is really the meat of things, though. Which rating should be followed when filling one's tires? Should you use the vehicle's rating, the tire's rating, the
Bit of background: you can run your tires at various pressures, either under or over the recommendations. Over inflating the tires leads to overwear down the middle of the tire but a nice rigid tire - which is great for track days, smooth roads etc. Under inflating wears the outside edges more, and weakens the sidewalls meaning the tire can move about more - which is good on bumpy roads as they soak up bumps. The tire manufacturer rating is usually a recommended 'do not exceed' from the manufacturer in order to avoid tire wear. The vehicle rating is based on the weight of the car and the handling characteristics (including the suspension travel) so is more around handling/comfort. As an example, my vehicle recommendation is 32psi on the rears and 34 at the front, but I use 36 at the rear and 38 at the front as I prefer the handling characteristics - it points more on corners and is slightly more prone to oversteer. I still keep it under the tire manufacturer recommendation, which on th
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Good morning. Recently I conducted a search on why, after long-term storage of my car about 5 months, one of my tires pressure was 4psi lower than the others. I had set them all a little high, 40psi for storage. Upon returning, three of them had dropped to 35psi - the weather was colder - but one was at 32. Google results included the obvious - a tire puncture, but I think that tire would have been flat after 5 months storage. They also suggested checking the vaves and the stem cores. So I purchased a 4-in-one tire tool, and using the valve stem core side I checked the cores. 4-way-Tire-Valve-
혼다 CR-V
My 2017 Honda front wheel drive CRV has 21k miles with two original tires each with 6/32 tread remaining and two new tires due to non-repairable punctures. After the first new tire, the TPMS recalibrated correctly. However, after the second new tire, the TPMS monitor system warning continues to come on after a few miles of driving after TPMS recalibration commands. In my first discussion (telecom) with a local Honda dealer (where I bought the car) service advisor, I was told that I need to buy two more new tires so there would not be such a tread depth discrepancy. I expressed my dismay that I
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This refers to a problem with my car, based on comments on the “Hit curb 10mph brand new Corolla - mild vibration after” thread. Also, reference to the thread which I posted on exploding three tires in a very few days on my 2009 Mexican Sienna, due to road hazards. Someone on the Corolla thread commented that low profile tires cause a lot of maintenance problems. My tires are 235/60R17. Would those be low profile tires? I have never had tires explode like that before, ,and so I was blaming (besides being my fault, of course, for not missing those road hazards) on the Euzkadi tires. I have no i
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This article explains where engine carbon deposits come from and gives some advice on how to avoid them. The best advice seems to be to change oil at least as often as recommended by the manufacturer, use fully synthetic oil, and also use Top Tier gas. A study by AAA showed that Top Tier gas reduced carbon deposits by 45% to 72% in 5000 miles on engines with carbon deposits. While Top Tier gas doesn’t entirely avoid carbon deposition, it reduces it by up to 19 times compared to other gasoline. Talk about cheap prevention. Jalopnik – 29 Apr 26 What Engine Parts Are Most Susceptible To Carbon Bu