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공임
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부품비
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소요 시간
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2026. 6. 30. 작업
난이도 & 준비물
증상
How do A/C professionals dispose of refrigerant?
처리 내용
When I got my Refrigerant Handling Certification from MACS many years ago, we were sworn to use a proper recycling machine, which captured everything and filtered out air, oils, and moisture. The refrigerant could then be re-used for the same or different vehicle. This was the transitional time, and there was much concern of a cheap "retrofit" DIY job creating a mix of R-12 "Freon" and R134a, which no machine could deal with. When such contaminated refrigerant mixes were discovered, the offending stuff was shipped back to the manufacturer, or one of their agents, and destroyed - I know not by what manner - but I believe it was controlled incineration (Burning R-12 creates a sort of Mustard Gas) and that the process was very, very expensive. Most cases involved shipping and disposing of the "contaminated" recycling machine as well. I know many otherwise excellent and devout shops that illegally vented such systems, rather than incur a $10-$20k hazardous waste disposal incident. In truth
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Very hot outside. Started car with a/c already on full blast (factor?). Car started shaking, put it in reverse to backup and steering wheel VERY hard to turn and brakes VERY hard to apply. Turned a/c and car off, waited 5 minutes, started it again and drove home with no a/c and no further issues. This has happened before. What is wrong? Help!! And Thank You!!
토요타 캠리
The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Camry. The contact stated that after shifting into park, the air condition system was activated, and the engine revved with the RPM elevated. The contact turned off the A/C and then turned off the vehicle. The vehicle was restarted, and the check engine warning light illuminated. Additionally, the contact stated that while the accelerator pedal was depressed, the vehicle inadvertently accelerated at rapid speed then decelerated without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer however, the contact stated that no diagnostic test was performed due to the cost. T
차량 정보 없음
Blowing warm air. Compressor clutch engages when air turned on. I replaced the clutch coil last summer. Low side reading ~39 High side ~45. Low side does react (very little) when RPM is increased, high side does not. Most of my findings lead me to believe that the compressor is bad but I also know that low freon will make my high side low. Car (98 grand-prix se 3.1) only has 49k miles on it and I feel the compressor should still be good (that’s partly my wallet talking as well). Should I gamble and try to add freon and see if it improves? Replacing the comp and related items is just not a fina
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I've taken my car to 3 different A/C shops and they were all unable to diagnose the problem. It's a BMW 1-series F20 LCI B47. Compressor is a magnetic clutch type Denso 6SAS14A. Symptoms: The AC compressor goes into "reduced mode" at higher-than-idle RPM. Once the RPM is dropped back to idle the AC restarts. If the RPM is returned from the "High Zone" to "Working Zone" the AC still doesn't restart, only when it returns to "Idle Zone". The actual RPM limit of the "Working Zone" depends on outside temperature. If ambient temperature is 20C it wor