얼터네이터 교환 수리 사례
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2026. 6. 30. 작업
난이도 & 준비물
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How to determine exactly what's wrong with my alternator?
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So after separating the two halves of the alternator, and showing it to a guy who rebuilds alternators he said the stator looked like it was burnt and that maybe the field control unit might be bad also. Of course he only looked at it, although I have to say all the internal components do look burnt to my amateur eye and not just dirty: I also noticed a number of nicks and cracks in the insulation of the stator wires like this one: Now it quite possible that I caused these nicks and cracks in the process of disassembling the alternator, but the I was pretty careful I thought and it would seem the insulation isn't it such great condition if it chips off so easily. I tested the rotor, and the resistance between the slip rings was in spec ( between 2.4 - 6 Ohms according to one of my books ). I also re-tested the rectifier and it seemed OK, giving 525 Ohms at 24*C and 496 Ohms at 55*C. I'm not sure what's up with that, as I'm certain that I read 1199 on it a while back. So anyways, since
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For example, it seems switching from some high wattage headlights to much lower wattage LED's frees up more of the alternator's power capacity. But, does this mean the alternator (or other electrical components like the voltage regulator) will start to run hotter? (to dissipate excess power via heat?) Or, does the decrease in overall electrical load simply get handled by just easing up the load on the engine making it easier to spin the alternator in the first place?